Rebuilding a country
I haven't gotten out much, but I had the opportunity last week to go to a ceremony outside of Kabul. We drove through town and up into the countryside to get there. I was fascinated by the hustle and bustle along the way.
To set the stage it's important to know that Afghanistan has suffered from a six year long drought. On top of that the irrigation systems have been destroyed by some 20 years of war.
As we drove through town, the interpreter with us explained that Afghanistan was once much more lush than it is now. Farmers raised lots of fruit. Postcards reminiscent of those days can still be found at tourists stands.
Now it is barren and rocky and very dusty. In fact tonight the wind kicked up during dinner and stirred up a dust storm. The dust is extremely fine - almost like talcum powder. You can feel it down your throat. It kind of burns you eyes and if you rub your skin it burns as well.
But there are many people in Kabul and they are all busy doing business, rebuilding or just surviving. We got in a traffic jam that was something out of a movie. Something like five roads came together and the knot of traffic included modern SUVs, rusted old vans and cars, people on bicycles, donkeys pulling carts, and for the really poor, men pulling their carts where the donkey should be.
We passed businesses where people were out repairing the damage of war, painting and sweeping their entrances. It's kind of funny to see some of the signs advertising cellular phones and other modern electronics. In fact, cell phones are very popular here. The ceremony I attended was also attended by the new Afghan military and several important local tribesmen and leaders in traditional Afghan dress. Every once in awhile I'd see one pull a cell phone from under his tunic and talk. It was such a clash of culture!
At one point we drove through a very busy market area. Section by section we passed vegetable and fruit vendors, others selling pots and pans, lumber merchants, and butchers. The butchers were by far the most interesting. The fresh meat hangs in the open air. Sometimes the sun shines directly on it. And of course the flies buzz about. I asked the interpreter how it is that the meat doesn't make people sick when it is not refrigerated. He explained that it would kill him or me, but the people who buy that meat have developed the means to digest it without getting sick. To pass it is both repulsive and amazing.
Of course among the shoppers were women and children. The children are very pretty and many were dressed very colorfully. The women were a mix of old and modern. Some were dressed quite colorfully, but covered with burqas. The newer burqas are of a very lightweight polyester that is almost like silk. Other women were not covered, but wore dark modest clothing. A few were covered with the black robes you see in Arab countries. Some had simple scarves over modest outfits. This is a country in transition.
Evidence of war is everywhere, once in awhile we saw the charred carcass of a vehicle, and there is trash everywhere. In fact, I cannot get over the amount of litter everywhere here. Sometimes we'd see people picking through the roadside litter, looking for something to use. But generally the litter is comprised of empty beverage containers, plastic bags, cans and boxes. And of course anywhere new government buildings are piles of sandbags, rows of barbed wire, and all kinds of security barriers. I'm sure this once was a beautiful city as you can periodically see the remnants of mosaics or fancy ironwork. But now it is a dusty, gray place.
As we got to the "suburbs" and the base of the mountains surrounding the city we saw many, many homes in layers up the sides of the mountains. They reminded me of the California coast. Rustic colored adobe homes overlooking the city. They were almost on top of one another, except for the walls that surround most homes here.
As we drove, most people recognized us as American military and they waved and smiled. I have found the Afghans to be very nice. If you smile and great them, they usually break out into huge smiles, touch their hearts and great you. The children ran along the edges of the street waving to us. I took a lot of photos and they loved that.
Sometimes I'd see two or three people crowded onto a bicycle and when I raised my camera for a snapshot they would pose or wave.
As we got out into the country we once again passed the simple brick ovens making crude bricks for homes and fences, people working on fences and simple homes, and a few small family farms. Of course there are also fuel stations along the roadways -- many are run by generators because there are no power lines carrying power into the country.
I guess the impression I was left with is that these people have so very little, yet they are working so hard to rebuild their country with almost nothing. I give them a lot of credit to trying once again to bring order to their lives.
I miss home...
To set the stage it's important to know that Afghanistan has suffered from a six year long drought. On top of that the irrigation systems have been destroyed by some 20 years of war.
As we drove through town, the interpreter with us explained that Afghanistan was once much more lush than it is now. Farmers raised lots of fruit. Postcards reminiscent of those days can still be found at tourists stands.
Now it is barren and rocky and very dusty. In fact tonight the wind kicked up during dinner and stirred up a dust storm. The dust is extremely fine - almost like talcum powder. You can feel it down your throat. It kind of burns you eyes and if you rub your skin it burns as well.
But there are many people in Kabul and they are all busy doing business, rebuilding or just surviving. We got in a traffic jam that was something out of a movie. Something like five roads came together and the knot of traffic included modern SUVs, rusted old vans and cars, people on bicycles, donkeys pulling carts, and for the really poor, men pulling their carts where the donkey should be.
We passed businesses where people were out repairing the damage of war, painting and sweeping their entrances. It's kind of funny to see some of the signs advertising cellular phones and other modern electronics. In fact, cell phones are very popular here. The ceremony I attended was also attended by the new Afghan military and several important local tribesmen and leaders in traditional Afghan dress. Every once in awhile I'd see one pull a cell phone from under his tunic and talk. It was such a clash of culture!
At one point we drove through a very busy market area. Section by section we passed vegetable and fruit vendors, others selling pots and pans, lumber merchants, and butchers. The butchers were by far the most interesting. The fresh meat hangs in the open air. Sometimes the sun shines directly on it. And of course the flies buzz about. I asked the interpreter how it is that the meat doesn't make people sick when it is not refrigerated. He explained that it would kill him or me, but the people who buy that meat have developed the means to digest it without getting sick. To pass it is both repulsive and amazing.
Of course among the shoppers were women and children. The children are very pretty and many were dressed very colorfully. The women were a mix of old and modern. Some were dressed quite colorfully, but covered with burqas. The newer burqas are of a very lightweight polyester that is almost like silk. Other women were not covered, but wore dark modest clothing. A few were covered with the black robes you see in Arab countries. Some had simple scarves over modest outfits. This is a country in transition.
Evidence of war is everywhere, once in awhile we saw the charred carcass of a vehicle, and there is trash everywhere. In fact, I cannot get over the amount of litter everywhere here. Sometimes we'd see people picking through the roadside litter, looking for something to use. But generally the litter is comprised of empty beverage containers, plastic bags, cans and boxes. And of course anywhere new government buildings are piles of sandbags, rows of barbed wire, and all kinds of security barriers. I'm sure this once was a beautiful city as you can periodically see the remnants of mosaics or fancy ironwork. But now it is a dusty, gray place.
As we got to the "suburbs" and the base of the mountains surrounding the city we saw many, many homes in layers up the sides of the mountains. They reminded me of the California coast. Rustic colored adobe homes overlooking the city. They were almost on top of one another, except for the walls that surround most homes here.
As we drove, most people recognized us as American military and they waved and smiled. I have found the Afghans to be very nice. If you smile and great them, they usually break out into huge smiles, touch their hearts and great you. The children ran along the edges of the street waving to us. I took a lot of photos and they loved that.
Sometimes I'd see two or three people crowded onto a bicycle and when I raised my camera for a snapshot they would pose or wave.
As we got out into the country we once again passed the simple brick ovens making crude bricks for homes and fences, people working on fences and simple homes, and a few small family farms. Of course there are also fuel stations along the roadways -- many are run by generators because there are no power lines carrying power into the country.
I guess the impression I was left with is that these people have so very little, yet they are working so hard to rebuild their country with almost nothing. I give them a lot of credit to trying once again to bring order to their lives.
I miss home...
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